View Full Version : Sprint Training Physiology
FrostyPaws
08-11-2013, 11:28 PM
So many keeps I've read over the years indicate using the mill for X amount of time at a nice, steady pace. While that's not a bad idea, I think the idea of using actual sprint work in the keep is beneficial. I was having this type of discussion the other day with some friends, and that lead me to actually do some research on the subject. Here are some studies for anyone that feels compelled to learn:
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21849912
http://jp.physoc.org/content/575/3/901.full
Granted, it is geared toward people, but it can be applied to dogs without a doubt. The second one is a little wordy, so just be warned.
Officially Retired
08-12-2013, 02:43 AM
Thanks for sharing. My mill keep uses interval sprint (all-out running) philosophy.
I learned this from Doc of Baystate Kennels, who basically said he would put a rabbit or other dog in front of his dog on the mill, which would geek-up the dog to go all-out (and he'd do this until the mill dog just couldn't go all-out anymore, and would trot) ... upon which time Doc would remove the bait. Doc would then watch the mill dog's breathing as it trotted ... and he would jot down the time it took the dog to recover (stopped breathing so heavy) ... upon which time Doc then would re-introduce the bait so the dog would go all-out again to failure, etc.
He would try to see improvements in 1) how long the dog could go all-out, 2) how little it took him to recover, and 3) how many sets of this he could do until he surmised the dog had had enough.
I think this kind of interval sprint workout is far better for what a dog is supposed to do than just long-distance trotting, which is why that is the mill keep in my book.
Jack
i like to do the same, but im not going to let one sprint till it cant anymore for a bait. i believe you have to build op the sprinting times, just like you have to build up everything.
i put a blanket over the rabbit instead of removing it, works great.
Officially Retired
08-12-2013, 03:05 AM
Doc's philosophy was the dog will build up from Day 1.
In other words, it's self-limiting.
Meaning on Day 1 the dog's own lack of condition will limit how long it can run all-out ... and you simply build from there.
Jack
Black Hand
08-12-2013, 09:03 AM
I use this also and it is a good way to burn fat, sprinting in intervals. I use a ball or the example jack used on the mill. both work well. you will put lot of work on the body but not as much on the bones. if you ever played sports, you can probably remember how brittle your ankles and feet felt after running so many laps. I never had the same pains when doing something like suicides n wind sprints. you exert yourself a lot faster, your lungs, muscles, etc but not where your feet n ankles are killing you 3 days later. you could base your exercise on the type of dog you have though. if he really likes to pace himself long runs might be a good idea. if he's explosive n has lot of speed then sprint intervals will be good.
bxpits
08-12-2013, 09:38 AM
Excellent topic and posts, I myself like to have them do sprints mainly by throwing a ball or stick. We start off like jack said til the dog tires out naturally then in a few weeks we will add hills.
I feel the condition is better than just regular mill work and work great together.
Jack, i find some dogs may push themselves to much when they are after a prey. It might be because i had some bad luck injuring one this way ;)
Officially Retired
08-12-2013, 10:03 AM
Jack, i find some dogs may push themselves to much when they are after a prey. It might be because i had some bad luck injuring one this way ;)
Dogs can become injured at any point in time, but I agree untrained dogs are most vulnerable.
This is why, to prevent this, I have a pre-keep as part of my protocol, both to gradually build some tone in the dog prior to the actual keep, as well as to pre-condition the pads :idea:
I agree with you that, if you take a totally unworked dog, with soft sensitive pads, and (with no warmup or pre-keep) start running the bejesus out of him cold-and-soft, that you will quickly come up with a lame mutt :lol:
Jack
gotap_d
08-12-2013, 07:05 PM
I also agree with this type of High Intensity Training. If you are doing hit training then you dont need to keep a dog on the mill for an hour plus. When i hear people say they are doing an hour and 15 mins straight i just picture there dog walking and trotting at the most.
splash747
08-13-2013, 05:59 AM
an interesting read...what are we feeding?
https://www.healthyplanetrx.com/articles.asp?id=180
I am a big fan of the sprint. I do it similar to the way Jack describes. I want him to go all out for as long as he can. When he breaks I watch him til he recovers. When he recovers we go all out again. I am more concerned with the recovery times but over time the length of bursts will get longer and (for me) more importantly the recovery times will shorten. In time the condition of the dog will allow for more sets.
I use the mill as well but I am a bigger fan of sprinting on the ground. I think anytime the dog will go all out with all four legs on the ground it is a plus. Sprinting plays a huge roll in what I do with the dogs. EWO
evolutionkennels
08-17-2013, 05:39 AM
I am a big fan of the sprint. I do it similar to the way Jack describes. I want him to go all out for as long as he can. When he breaks I watch him til he recovers. When he recovers we go all out again. I am more concerned with the recovery times but over time the length of bursts will get longer and (for me) more importantly the recovery times will shorten. In time the condition of the dog will allow for more sets.
I use the mill as well but I am a bigger fan of sprinting on the ground. I think anytime the dog will go all out with all four legs on the ground it is a plus. Sprinting plays a huge roll in what I do with the dogs. EWO
Very well said. Adding to that, if your recovery times aren't getting shorter, and your bursts aren't lasting longer... You MAY not be resting your dog enough or underfeeding or both... JUST MAYBE!
Without a doubt. Recognizing when a dog needs to be rested and not worked could very well be the most important lesson to learn when conditioning a dog. EWO