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Thread: Won't work at hide...what to do???

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  1. #1

    Won't work at hide...what to do???

    I have this new group of hounds that I got a few weeks ago. Five to be exact, four are over two yrs old and one is a 10 month old pup. Yesterday after I was done cleaning out their chain spots I got out my flirt pole with a hide on it to see how each one would react to it. I walked around to each chain spot starting with the pup and ran the hide around in their chain spots for a very short time as it was pretty warm here yesterday and they was on chains. Three including the pup took right up with it and looked great one wasn't too sure about what to do until I walked around to other spots then he figured it out but one of the females had no reaction to it at all I mean hardly even knew it was in her spot. I dropped it dragged it around made it jump in the air even placed it beside her.NOTHING AT ALL. She smelled it and would look away. But if I was with another dog she was steady barking and raising hell at them so I drop it between her spot and another to realize she could care less about the hide was just after the opposite dog from her. So my question is if she has no desire to work a hide or other bait items what are some things I can look into doing with her during a keep? Clearly flirt poles spring poles and other baits tools maybe out but what about weight pulls? I know walking or running can be used that's a given but should I look into a swim tank? Just looking ahead so I can plan out this keep well head of time. Thanks for all suggestions you may have I'm always willing and looking for ways to improve my keeps and figured this may help others

  2. #2
    If you have a new group then give them time. Lots of times they will mimic the dog beside them. If he is doing a lot of times the next one will as well. Lots of dogs learn habits from the dogs they see and lots of times it is bad habits. This could be one of those times to imprint good habits. Best of luck. EWO

  3. #3
    some dogs wont man and some got straight add i got one who loves the hide for about five minutes and once he gets it a few times and i take it away he will lose interest

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by bolero View Post
    some dogs wont man and some got straight add i got one who loves the hide for about five minutes and once he gets it a few times and i take it away he will lose interest
    So what do you do once that dog loses interest in the hide? That was my reason for adding this topic to see what others do when working a hide doesnt work for a dog

  5. #5
    ive learn that it does not hurt to give your dog a rest from time to time and focus more on flirting. in my opinion i feel that the mouth tends to get sore and it needs time heal. and the flirt keeps him on that hide also you can play tug of war. i have had a dog go sleep on it and a couple days later wouldn't touch it

  6. #6
    Agreed. That goes with lots of things. Too much of most things is a bad thing. Too much treadmill, flirtpole. worm medicine, antibiotics, (we can all fill in the blank). Too much of anything can lead to problems. EWO

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by grindhard View Post
    ive learn that it does not hurt to give your dog a rest from time to time and focus more on flirting. in my opinion i feel that the mouth tends to get sore and it needs time heal. and the flirt keeps him on that hide also you can play tug of war. i have had a dog go sleep on it and a couple days later wouldn't touch it

    I may ruffle a few feathers with this post. But almost all dogs are in better shape off the chain than in the show. Quite simply, most over train thier animals and should bring the mill, jenny, or springpole to the show, cause that's where they left the dog. Most people are too stupid to recognize when the dogs muscle has no ATP, when it needs rest. If I had to start over again, I'd rest every other day. New performance tests show sled dogs have more endurance and are stronger when rested every other day. Furthermore, specific to spring pole... Teeth become loose from gum line, so you should never work more than 20 min, and never where the back legs aren't on the ground. Furthermore, no mouth work 17 days before show date, or you'll be picking up your teeth from the square.

  8. #8
    I don't think you are ruffling any feathers. If you said, "Hey EWO, what do you think about this post? I would say you are preaching to the choir. I too believe a lot of the dogs have been left on the mill/jenny/spring pole. I have often posted the ability to see the need for rest is by far the most important part of conditioning. It is an art in itself. I am hardly ever concerned with how much a dog can do as much as I am concerned with the time it takes for him to recover and do it again. I am slightly more conservative with the teeth than 17 days but the principle is the same. If I use mouth work it is early on and stops three weeks or so out. I too agree the back legs have to be on the ground. I also use it at lots of angles, from overhead, low from a tree, higher up, etc..etc.. but always with the feet on the ground. As for me, preach on Brother EVO...EWO



    Quote Originally Posted by evolutionkennels View Post
    I may ruffle a few feathers with this post. But almost all dogs are in better shape off the chain than in the show. Quite simply, most over train thier animals and should bring the mill, jenny, or springpole to the show, cause that's where they left the dog. Most people are too stupid to recognize when the dogs muscle has no ATP, when it needs rest. If I had to start over again, I'd rest every other day. New performance tests show sled dogs have more endurance and are stronger when rested every other day. Furthermore, specific to spring pole... Teeth become loose from gum line, so you should never work more than 20 min, and never where the back legs aren't on the ground. Furthermore, no mouth work 17 days before show date, or you'll be picking up your teeth from the square.

  9. #9
    Some dogs will not do it no matter. Some absolutely live for it. Most fall somewhere in between. I think working the dog next to them is about the best answer. Flipping it over to the one that is not interested and if he takes interest only let him have it for a few seconds and then to the next dog. Build from there. If he gets all he wants right off the bat he may lose interest again. Give him a little if he wants it, back to the dog that will work it and then a little more. If it is in him this should build it up. Little by little. Sometimes it is like putting a square peg in a round hole. Just does not work. EWO

  10. #10
    It's in the dog. Once that dog lose focus, he's done. But it doesn't mean he will be like that for life. Later down the road he might become a totally focused dog. It just depend how committed he is towards working. I have a bitch who wouldn't work for shit when she was young. But after 4 keeps, and 5 years later, she will not quit when she work because she know its her ticket to whopping some bitches ass.
    I have her son also who would not touch a hide and he's 18 months old but will run the mill nonstop. I have a feeling once he experience what he's getting ready for, he'll eventually get turned on and start working.

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